Betta fish owners will witness all kinds of weird behavior.
Still, a betta that’s laying on the bottom of the tank does sound alarming.
Is the fish turned on one side or are its fins supporting its body?
Is that a symptom of a serious illness or just another odd trait of character?
Will it be okay eventually or is that the final straw?
Why does it look as if your betta is breathing heavily?
A Betta fish may rest on the bottom of its tank due to polluted aquarium water. Foul water conditions can make Betta fish lethargic and even poison them. Another common reason why Betta fish don’t move from the bottom are strong filter currents that impair their swimming ability.
However, sometimes it’s completely normal for betta fish to stay at the bottom of the tank especially if they’re old.
Let me explain.
12 Reasons why your betta fish is laying at the bottom of the tank
A healthy betta needs its personal space, frequent water changes, and a properly diversified diet.
When all of the above conditions are met, bettas rarely spend any time on the bottom.
So if your betta is standing still in an unnatural position, this could mean a number of things.
Here are 12 reasons why your betta fish might be laying on the bottom of the tank:
1. It may be sleeping.
Betta fish, like most other animals, do need rest and will sleep.
They will often find a comfortable place on the bottom of the aquarium where they will lay and take a nap during the night.
Sometimes a betta will snooze on a big leaf, closer to the top of the tank, as that’s where they do it in the wild.
Betta fish are not nocturnal, so their sleeping habits dictate being active during the daytime and going to sleep at night, or when the room gets dark.
They may also sleep in portions of about 1 hour at a time, multiple times a night.
Betta fish like to sleep lying on their side.
It’s an interesting trait of theirs adding to their popularity among fishkeepers.
If your pet friend appears otherwise healthy and active, it is probably just taking a nap on the bottom.
Fun fact: There are even “betta beds” that act as artificial leaves, large enough to support a resting betta. Amazon has them for under $4.
Anyway, if you’re like me (amused at how absurd it looks) then you’d be happy to give your pet a comfy bed.
The leaf should be mounted at the top of the tank.
Closer to the surface is where Betta fish spend their time in the wild.
A betta will go to sleep whenever the lights are off.
Keeping them on constantly can confuse the fish.
It will swim around until it’s exhausted and then have a prolonged rest somewhere in the tank.
Exhaustion can weaken your betta’s immune system.
2. It has Nitrate poisoning.
by in-another-castle
Long-term exposure to Nitrate is one of the if not, the most common reason behind a Betta fish that’s lethargically lying on the bottom of its aquarium. Is your Betta fish also progressively losing its coloration and beginning to look pale?
Is it lacking appetite? Do its gills move rapidly as if the fish is out of breath?
If you notice a combination of these signs then it’s very likely that your Betta spends its time on the tank’s bottom because it has been poisoned by the Nitrate content in its aquarium water. If you click the link you’ll learn everything about that condition and how to immediately treat it, but I’ll give you a quick rundown.
Prolonged exposure to even 20 ppm (parts per million) of Nitrate will sooner or later cause signs of illness. You’ll hear most aquarists say that anything between 20 and 40 ppm is safe to have in a freshwater aquarium.
This, however, is a common misunderstanding that originated from the fact that nitrate is relatively less harmful when compared to nitrite and ammonia.
Both ammonia and nitrite are extremely toxic to aquarium fish, where nitrate is more of a silent, slow killer.
Arm yourself with a reliable liquid test kit and perform a water test.
Test strips can only give a rough estimation of the situation but are nowhere near accurate.
In the case of poisoning, you’d need to know exactly how much Nitrate is there in the Betta fish tank.
This is so because you’ll need to calculate how much water you’ll need to remove. A good water test to precisely measure the Nitrate in an aquarium would be the API Master test kit (this link leads to Amazon.com).
At this point, you’ll need to physically remove the Nitrate through water changes but do so in a slow and controlled manner.
Changing too much aquarium water at once may cause shock to your Betta fish.
3. It’s lazy.
by coo_guy82
Sometimes, it’s not a lack of sleep but rather a lack of motivation.
If the front pelvic fins are moving and supporting a Betta that’s sitting on the bottom of its tank, then the fish is most likely being lazy.
Laziness is a common trait of ornamental Betta fish.
Having huge fins is not always fun for swimming, so the fish eventually develops a habit of chilling at random places in the aquarium, and more often than not, this happens to be the bottom.
Monitor the behavior of your fish.
If your Betta moves around and feeds normally in-between “rests” then there’s nothing you should worry about. Anyway, getting one of the Betta hammocks I mentioned above will provide your fish with its own resting space, away from the bottom.
4. It has a malfunctioning Swim Bladder.
by TottandBean
Another reason for a Betta to remain on the bottom or even swim sideways may be the swim bladder disorder (click the link to check the extensive guide I wrote on that). The Betta fish’s swim bladder is narrowed due to overfeeding or constipation, among other reasons.
The stomach swells, hindering the swim bladder’s proper functioning.
The condition is not lethal in its nature but it makes swimming really hard for the fish.
Sometimes a Swim Bladder malfunction causes Betta fish to spend a lot of their time laying around the bottom, as they find it difficult to move.
They may also float uncontrollably to the top, but still turned sideways or even upside-down.
The disease can be treated by fasting the fish and feeding it foods that contain more fiber.
An approach I find extremely effective is to feed the betta a crushed pea or some Daphnia, which are both an excellent source of fiber. For the former – peel the pea and boil it before the offering.
You should fast the fish for at least 1 day (24+ hours) after that.
Be sure to clean the tank of pea leftovers, as cooked peas can make a mess in the aquarium’s water.
Using Daphnia is pretty straightforward and the preferred choice among aquarists.
Personally, I also prefer to feed my Betta some Daphnia as it is a natural source of fiber. Betta fish are carnivorous and that’s what they would eat if they were in the wild.
To avoid constipation and, consequently, Swim Bladder malfunctions I recommend feeding your Betta with high-fiber foods at least twice a week. The other type of bloating can be avoided if you soak any pellets for 2 to 3 minutes or so before feeding them to your Betta fish.
This allows the food to swell outside of the fish’s stomach.
Don’t forget you need to soak them in aquarium water, or at least one that has been dechlorinated. For extra constipation-prevention diversify your Betta’s menu by feeding it bloodworms (a type of water flea larvae) occasionally.
Bloodworms are another food that replicates the natural diet of a Betta fish. An organic diet may help it fight off disease and make its bright colors stand out more.
5. Filter current is too fast.
by Kenzielauren8
Some may argue that Bettas don’t really need a filter because they can get tired quickly if the output current is too strong for their oversized fins. Though the part about Betta fish not needing a filter is wrong, it’s definitely recommended to go for a sponge filtration in smaller fish tanks of 5 or fewer gallons.
That’s unless your aquarium kit comes with a built-in filter, which usually isn’t too strong.
Most selectively bred Betta fish have massive fins that make swimming in more turbulent water difficult.
So if your Betta seems less active and prefers to relax on the bottom of its tank, try tuning down the filter’s water circulation.
Not every filter has a flow-controlling valve, but many do. My success for a 10-gallon single Betta tank has been with this such one filter (link to view it on Amazon) which has the adjustable flow feature.
Being able to control the flow in a small tank has made my pet friend twice as active. For small fish tanks that hold between 3 and 5 gallons of water, you can likely get away with using a cheap sponge filter such as this one.
For my larger tanks that include a betta or other community fish with large fins, however, I am quite satisfied with using the AquaClear Power Filter 50. In my opinion, the last one crushes the competition on price tags that come with the same functionalities.
Both HOB filters work pretty well with my super poly-fil hack, by the way (link goes to my article on that). Anyway, if you can’t get a filter with an adjustable flow rate right now, there are several DIY approaches you can try:
- Strap a bio bag or any other kind of filter media on your filter’s water outlet. You can use a rubber band, fishing line, or a cable zip tie to secure its placement.
- Disperse the flow from the filter. Although you can get awfully creative here, I can confirm two easy and efficient ways to do that:
– Tank divider kits are super cheap and will provide you with the perfect flow baffle and the means to attach it. Mount the mesh in front of the flow outlet.
– Use a brand new plastic soap dish. Soap can be toxic to fish, so go and get a new cheap one from Walmart. They usually come with holes that are perfect for spreading the flow of your filter. Of course, go for the ones with suction cups.
- Block the flow with plants or decoration. A well-planted tank will provide a safe place for your betta, away from the mean filter flow. You can also block the current with rockwork or artificial caves.
- Drill holes in the intake pipe of your filter. This is simple physics. More holes or a larger intake pipe will reduce the pressure and therefore slow down the flowing current.
Note: It has been the case that I get asked if Betta fish need a filtering system quite often (more than I would like to admit). Betta fish produce waste and do need filtration.
Canister filters still hold the #1 place when it comes to maintaining decent water conditions.
If you’re planning on getting one, use a spray bar as an outlet.
These filters provide a strong flow rate, which needs to be spread out when dealing with long-finned fish. Browse some options and mind that you should not use them in aquariums with less volume than 10 US gallons.
6. Water is too cold.
Naturally, as with any other cold-blooded creature, a Betta won’t tolerate cold water.
They are tropical fish and thrive in waters with a temperature of 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 28 in Celcius).
When the water is too cold, their metabolism gradually slows down.
This causes them to become lethargic and spend a lot of time at the bottom of an aquarium.
Slowly raise the temperature if you think this may be the problem. If by any chance the aquarium does not have a heater do some quick research on the best heaters for tanks that hold between 3 and 10 gallons of water and get one as soon as possible.
7. Its water too hot.
In summer an aquarium can get really hot.
Warm water releases oxygen too quickly which may leave your Betta gasping on the bottom.
Though Betta fish possess a special organ called Labyrinth, allowing them to breathe atmospheric air, they still may die if the water is poorly oxygenated.
In this case, you have to lower the temperature and add some extra oxygen to the tank:
- Lowering the temperature – DON’T use ice packs or ice cubes in the water.
The sudden temperature change will stress both your pet fish and the good bacteria in the aquarium and, perhaps, even kill them. What you can do is place a fan to blow directly on your aquarium’s water surface.
Another (obvious) solution would be air-conditioning the room.
You could also eliminate any direct sunlight reaching the aquarium.
Don’t keep the fish tank lights on for over 6 hours, which should be more than enough for your aquatic plants to grow. Note that LED lights emit little to no heat, so get one of those if you have the chance (hint: the link will help you with that).
- Oxygenating – Use a small air pump to help with bringing more oxygen to the fish tank.
8. Old Age.
by Catharsistar
Betta fish can live a happy and healthy life for about 4 to 5 years with good care.
Some may live even longer, but after hitting the 5-year mark they will become lethargic and more susceptible to disease.
Older Betta fish won’t have that youngster energy to explore.
They will prefer laying around on leaves or the bottom of your fish tank. If the lethargic behavior of your betta is coupled with heavy breathing, lack of appetite, or body swelling, it may be time to consult a vet. The combination of these signs can often indicate a betta is about to die.
9. High ammonia levels.
If your betta is breathing heavily while laying on the bottom then the fish tank may have an ammonia issue.
Ammonia spikes can be quite deadly to aquarium fish, so you need to confirm this as soon as possible.
Confirming an Ammonia poisoning is really simple – test your fish tank’s water. An excellent way to consistently monitor the ammonia in a fish tank is using Seachem’s Ammonia Alert sensor.
It accurately tracks ammonia levels continuously and it lasts for almost a year, which is impressive, given that it only costs around $7.
Finding the roots of the problem, however, can be more complex.
A couple of reasons for high ammonia may be:
- An overstocked tank – the fish produce too much waste for the beneficial bacteria to handle.
- Overfeeding – this is so because food waste turns into Ammonia.
Monitor how much your betta actually consumes and offer less food than it can eat in one feeding session. Also, research how much and how often you should feed your fish for optimal long-term results.
A good prevention of overfeeding is getting an automatic feeder.
It will feed the fish just the right amount, even when you’re out of town. I can recommend this one on Amazon, as it’s an Eheim and it seems to work consistently.
- Incomplete tank cycling – you’ve added the Betta before the aquarium was ready to harbor live fish. Tank cycling is when you leave the beneficial bacteria enough time to develop a colony in their new tank. In return, they will transform the dangerous ammonia levels into way less harmful Nitrates and your new pet fish won’t be in danger.
A fully cycled fish tank shows readings of 0 ppm of Ammonia, 0 ppm of Nitrite, and 10 or more ppm of Nitrate.
Full, natural cycling takes no less than a month. You can speed that process up to just about 2 weeks if you’re using bottled bacteria to kick start the Nitrogen cycle (learn more about that by clicking the link to see the guide I wrote).
The good news here is that you can almost always fix high ammonia levels by doing water changes. Your initial water change should be no more than 50%.
Dechlorinate the new water before putting it in the tank by using a water conditioner such as Seachem’s Prime and continue to perform a 20% water change every week.
10. Stress or Disease.
There are a number of diseases that put a fish on the bottom of its tank.
If you still haven’t found the solution to your problem then I have bad news for you.
Pay attention whether the hanging out at the bottom is combined with atypical behavior, weird white spots appearing on your betta’s body, loss of coloration, cloudy eyes, inflamed fin patches, etc.
If any of those is true then your betta is probably sick and you should be concerned. All of these symptoms indicate something more than a lazy personality.
by wilddogslushie
If it’s a female betta with a swollen belly and you’ve concluded it’s not constipation then it may mean that the fish is eggbound.
Sometimes this condition sorts itself out, but not every time.
If that’s the case, then little can be done. Note that this is just one of the reasons for a bloat in Betta fish.
Anyway, if you suspect an infection then treating with Epsom salts can be beneficial.
You can also let some Indian Almond leaves sit in the water.
They will release tannins, which help with infections and strengthen the immune system of your fish.
However, the best thing to do if your fish seems like it’s about to perish is to make sure your tank’s water parameters are in check. A stress-free environment for your betta can also make the difference.
One quick yet absurdly efficient way to reduce stress levels in betta tanks is by adding up some live plants.
These will artificially recreate the betta’s natural environment which may be a significant help in keeping stress at bay.
I recommend the addition of surface water plants that remain afloat if you think your betta may be stressed out. They filter the aquarium water from excessive organics, provide interesting surroundings for exploration, and also get as close to the betta’s native rice paddies as possible.
Oh, and they look great.
11. Its Aquarium is too small and the fish feels confined.
by Razzyxcxc
Although Bettas are among the smallest fish in the hobby keeping yours in anything under a 3-gallon tank may mean it’s time for a change.
The size of a 3-gallon tank is the BARE MINIMUM for a Betta fish. Ideally, you’d keep this fish species in a 5 or 10-gallon tank to allow for more free roaming. An argument to upgrade would be that smaller tanks are very difficult to keep in check.
Each small change in the water’s parameters can immediately throw the whole system off balance and your Betta will have nowhere to retreat to.
“Dilution is the solution to pollution.”
Anyway, another point I’d like to make is that, as mentioned above, Betta fish are curious, and also like their private space.
When the aquarium is too small and there’s no space to explore or retreat to, the stress may start to show.
Your betta will lose its life spark and it may prefer to do nothing but stay on the bottom.
Remember that in their natural habitat betta fish have a ton of horizontal space to swim in.
They are found in rice paddies and though shallow, these always provide more room to discover or a good hideout.
So, in case your betta tank is no more than 2-gallons in volume I would strongly suggest that you consider getting it a larger home.
Make sure the new place has LOTS of plants as well. I can help with choosing the right aquarium with this guide.
Good luck. The larger tanks also give the opportunity to house more than just a betta.
12. Sudden shift in water parameters after a water change.
Despite our best intentions, we sometimes end up doing more harm than good to our aquatic pets.
This often happens when we neglect a small detail in a simple routine we’ve done millions of times before.
Since water changes are one of the most frequent maintenance routines, we often tend to gloss over them.
Such missteps on our part, however, can seriously affect the health of betta fish and put them at the bottom of our tanks.
Apart from the temperature fluctuations I’ve pointed out, a water change may also sink a betta by altering water chemistry. This mostly happens because of osmotic shock.
If you perform a large water change in a fish tank with elevated levels of nitrate, you run the risk of sending your fish into osmotic shock.
Even though nitrate buildup can poison fish, most species can tolerate certain amounts of it.
When fish adapt to the increased nitrate levels, their bodies start retaining a higher amount of (NO₃-) ions.
The amount they retain, however, isn’t equal to that of the surrounding water.
As a result of this polarity, the surrounding water tries to suck out the nitrate ions from the fish’s body through osmotic pressure.
Fortunately for betta fish, mother nature loves balance so it protects them through a process called osmoregulation.
The powers of osmoregulation, however, aren’t unlimited.
In a polluted tank, the sudden shift in nitrate levels is so big that it overpowers the fish’s osmoregulation and sucks out its nitrate ions.
Apart from the bloating that may be observed, this stresses out the betta and may lead to unusual behaviors such as sitting at the bottom of the tank.
Related Read: Why Do Fish Die or Get Stressed After a Water Change?
My Conclusion
To witness a betta peacefully laying at a fish tank’s bottom is not uncommon.
It’s all about knowing your fish and its habits.
Carefully monitor its behavior and conclude whether it’s just a way of living or an issue in disguise.
What Fish Tank Mates Will Get Along With a Betta?
Why Use Aquarium Filter Floss and Where to Get it Dirt Cheap?
🐌 Why is My Aquarium Snail Floating?
🌱Dwarf Hairgrass Care Guide: DENSE Carpet in 4 Weeks
9 Reasons Why Your Betta Fish Won’t Eat (+Tips)
The ONLY Reef-Safe Ich Treatment in a Display Tank
What Do Betta Fish Eat in the Wild and as a Pet?
What Freshwater Fish Eat Aquarium Snails? (19 Ideas)
Siamese Algae Eater 101: A Complete Beginner’s Guide
Nitrate Poisoning in Aquarium Fish: Causes and Cures
My Betta is at the bottom of tank moving around for a little then stops for a bit then moves around more, only stops moving behind a plant
My betta dosen’t sit at the bottem but rather in/under plants or behind his filter. He swims around when I walk in or interact with him and feeding time but I usually see him laying or leaning on things like hes dead. When hes not doing that he acts like a normal fish would but he does this LITERALLY 90 percent of the time 🙁
Now I notice him floating to the top and having a hard time swimming
So my assumption is confirmed!
Reduce the flow from the filter!
It will make him twice as active, trust me.
Happy fish keeping.
Hi Apple,
Seems to me the filter current might be a bit too strong for your betta buddy. Block the intake and outlet with a sponge or more decor so that you dissipate the flow…
Hope, this helps!
Stay well!
My husband and I have gone betta crazy. We have bought “rescued” 20 betta in the last year or so. We received 5 new wal Mart bettas this weekend there are 3 who lay at the bottom of their tanks. (2 5 gallon tanks with dividers and a 20 gallon with dividers.) They have been fed frozen brine shrimp and bloodworms which they happily accept. I have not encountered this before. Should I be worried about them, could it be swimbladder issues? Any helpful info would be much appreciated.
Hi guys,
If they eat and swim from time to time then you should not be worried. If it’s swim bladder disease, then they’ll probably have issues swimming naturally (e.g. swimming sideways or upside-down). If it is SBD follow my directions from above.
Are the tanks well-oxygenated, heated and full of decorations? It could be that the bettas are “enjoying” too much attention and do not have a private space to retreat to. Not many know that these fish really do need their privacy. Make sure everything’s in check and get back to me?
Thanks and hope this helps!
Hello, my Betta fish has been happy and healthy since we got him up until a week ago where he’s been laying on the bottom of his tank flat or on his side and going up for air every now and then, he won’t eat and I’m very concerned. His belly seemed bloated and he’s very inactive and advice on what to do??
Hi, Natalie!
It would help if you think of something that has changed for him in the last week. If the belly seemed bloated, feed fiber-rich foods (the boiled pea from above would apply). Did you try that?
More info would be appreciated, thanks.
Hope this helps for now.
My betta has just recently started lying on the bottom of the tank and his fins are vey clamped and he seems to be struggling when he swims. And he seems to have these white dots on him. We don’t have a filter in my tank maybe that’s why? But other than that I don’t know what I’m doing wrong
Hi, Rosy
White dots sound like ich (a common parasite). Curled fins sound like fin rot (another common disease). Overall it seems like your betta is stressed and with a weak immune system. Worry not – this all may be a result from the selective breeding of bettas but it could also be caused by excessive stress levels. Move your betta to a hospital tank (to save your beneficial bacteria in the other one) and treat with medication (look it up). Add aquarium salt as well (for the ich). Don’t forget to perform daily water changes to the hospital tank as there won’t be any beneficial bacteria to handle the waste. After you’re done with the treatment and your betta is fine, make sure his tank is full of decorations and hideouts (to reduce stress) and also add some almond leaves in the tank (to strengthen the betta’s immune system).
These are all separate huge topics in themselves but I hope this helps!
Good luck, Rosa!
Hi. My son’s fish was fine unril we recently added a bloodworm to his diet. He is at the bottom on his side. Samuel Finn has been with us for 8 months. We love his friendly little personality. He comes to the top happily at feeding time and when we speak to him. He has a 10 gal tank with a heater and filter. He will swim around if he is touched with the net but then returns to the bottom. He’s a little better today since we did a partial water change. He was uniterested in eating last night but ate this am. Fins are against his body and he looks pathetic. Maybe I will try the pea🤷🏻♀️ Any advice is appreciated. Thx.
Hi Marion,
Could you please share the water parameters of your tank (gH included)?
Also, would you say his fins look curly (fin rot)?
Have you tried to boost his immune system’s response (adding aquarium salt / almond leaves)?
Thanks
I tried the pea, almost the exact same thing is happening to my betta, silgar. So please if you find out what’s wrong tell me! I’m really worried about my fish.
Thanks for the informative post – I lost my first male betta due to ammonia poisoning (big rookie mistake but I’ve learned a lot since then). I now have 2 male bettas (each in a 10g tank of their own, with an abundance of live plants, filter, heater, ornaments to rest on etc.) and I’ve kept them going strong for over a year. However, I am now having issues with both of them, and I really can’t figure out why…
The first is Mr Bubbles, he’s on his own with a couple of nerite snails because he’s ultra grumpy and doesn’t like sharing his space with ANYONE. He even flares at the snails and I’m concerned he’s doing himself harm by stressing about them so much that his top fin has pretty much fallen off, and his flare collar has also fallen off quite a bit, there’s only a little bit left at the bottom. He’s always been a bit raggedy and I’m certain it’s not fin rot (the fins look healthy but a bit raw where they’ve come off). He hasn’t “torn” them as far as I can tell, there’s nothing in his tank to tear them on – he did lose the top one before but it grew back so I wonder if this is just him getting stressed that is the cause? I would remove the snails but as I say, he did this before the snails were even in there… He even attacks me if I put my hand in there, so yeah, just an aggy fish in general. He eats like a horse. I feed him once a day with betta micro pellets.
The second is Mr Lawrence, he’s a bit more tolerant of other fish so he has some otto and nerite snail companions, and a shrimp or two (hard to tell as they hide). He hardly ever flares, is very docile but usually has a good appetite. That said, over the last few days he’s stopped coming up for food, and just sits at the bottom of the tank. I wouldn’t say he’s gasping, but he is breathing heavier than usual. He doesn’t seem to swim around much at all, but he’s upright and manages to change his position every now and then. His little side fins don’t seem to be doing a lot but then I would necessarily expect them to if he’s just sitting there. I’m not sure but he looks like he might be a little constipated by the look of him, I’ve fasted him for a couple of days but it’s made no difference so will try a pea tonight. Anyway this isn’t at all like him. I thought he could also be tired as the lights were going on for quite a long time, I’ve now limited it to 6 hours max a day (same for Mr Bubbles).
I should mention that I regularly test the water parameters in both tanks and they are both fine – Ammonia: 0ppm, Nitrite: 0ppm, Nitrate: 5ppm, PH: 7.6, temperatures are both at 26/27 C and I have always been careful not to overfeed… (I feed once a day, with 1 fast day a week).
Any ideas on these problems? I’m especially worried about Mr Lawrence.
Hi Jenny!
Did the issues occur at the same time? If yes and it’s not temperature then I would suspect the lighting schedule but you said that you fixed that yourself. Since how long do you have the new schedule on? If this was the issue and you made that change recently then you’d need to give their internal clocks time to adjust.
Anyway on Mr. Bubbles… Are you sure he’s not …old? You did not mention anything about age and he seems like a grumpy grandpa. This may be far-fetched from me without knowing more, but the excessive aggression is a sign of a looong solitary life. There’s scientific research on the topic (to which I linked in my new blog post on betta tank mates). From this, I can only conclude that perhaps he’s of age? It’s good that he keeps eating, that’s a positive sign in general.
On Mr. Lawrence… Have you done an exceptionally large water change around the period he stopped eating? This can cause stress. The pea is also a good idea, if it’s constipation then he’s definitely having trouble swimming, so he probably prefers to lay on the side (as with huge fins it’s probably exhausting for him). Also, since you mentioned heavy breathing this can also be caused by a large water change and… low oxygen levels. This applies to both your tanks (I did not see you mentioning an air stone in your equipment).
So these are my assumptions and suggestions based on the info you provided. You sound like a caring person, seeing that you provided both tanks with plants and all the equipment needed (glad you did your research!). I’m really hoping that things get better for both of them.
Hope this helps, and if you can provide me more info on the points I made we could dig deeper into this together.
Stay well!
This is exactly what’s happening with my fish at least the second fish Mr.Lawrence, my fish is lying on the bottom of the tank looking constipated and is not getting better. Tried a pea, even out him in a separate tank. I have been feeding him, and even asked my family memhers. So please help me!
My beta has been sitting on the bottom of the tank for a while. I think it was because my original fish tank was quite small, so I properly moved him to a bigger tank with a filter, heater, and just the right amount of decorations. But after over a week, my beta is still panting on the bottom and still moving very little. What does this mean? I’ve tried many things to get my beta back to moving again, but nothing seems to be working. He does not seem to have any of the diseases you listed, so what else could it be? Help !
Hi Sam!
Take a closer look at its abdomen. If it seems bloated it could mean one of two things.
1. If it’s a female betta it could be egg bound in which case little can be done.
2. It could be swim bladder disease (I have a link for that in the article above).
If its belly is not swollen then please check the water parameters. Ammonia 0? Nitrite 0? Nitrate below 15-20?
Also temperature. Try keeping the temperature between 78 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Also oxygen! Does your new tank have an aerator? Bettas do need somewhat oxygenated water.
Also check if its gills appear red, it may be an inflammation of the gills. Treat with some Epsom salt and Stress Coat (You can click here for the latter or try getting it from your local fish store.).
It may be other infection as well (say, fungal). You can try adding some indian Almond leaves to the water, which have good anti-bacterial properties. (Click here for these.)
Hope this helps!
Tell me what you tried and what worked for you?
Hey yeah I’m going to breed my beta fish and their tanks have been together for years and the girl has eggs and I don’t know actually how she has legs but she just randomly has eggs in her stomach is it OK to breed them?
Hey this happens to me you can try to put some aquarium salt in a separate tank, Since they’re in little tiny blocks you’ll need to wait for them to resolve with the heater and then you put the verification for just a couple of minutes maybe 5 to 15 minutes and then you put them back into their original tank and don’t put any salt water in there you can do this twice in one day but probably in the morning and night time and see if this works but never do it too much this can help with their breathing.since they’re in little tiny blocks you’ll need to wait for them to resolve with the heater and then you put the beta fish in for just a couple of minutes maybe 5 to 15 minutes and then you put them back into the original tank and don’t put any salt water in there you can do this twice in one day but probably in the morning and night time and see if this works but never do it too much this can help with their breat
hing
Ok transfered him and he just didnt have enough space, but found hims sleeping this morning, He was hovering a centimeter up from a flower decoration! ^^
Hi Marble,
I believe your betta may be a little stressed from the transition. How large is its current tank? It’s not well-known that bettas actually like their safe space. If you want him to feel comfortable you should decorate the tank a little. Plant a couple of greens and create a personal hiding spot for him. This way he won’t be as stressed, and he will gradually become more active with time.
Hope this helps, keep me posted.
My Betta must be really lazy.
He has two fins a centimeter underneath his head that are curled up and he doesnt use them. Im a bit concerned, but just got him yesterday and he might need a larger tank. FYI he is in the cup, Im transfering him today.