11 Freshwater Aquarium Eels That Can be Kept as Pets

Keeping eels at home is not for everyone, but I think we can all agree that it can be spectacular to own one.

And now, you’re curious as to what types of eels can live in freshwater because you don’t really feel like switching to a marine tank soon. But what more should you know about these creatures?

Are they aggressive to other fish? Will you be able to provide what they eat?

Is an eel suitable for an aquarium freshwater pet at all or does it have some extraordinary needs that can’t be met? If yes, are there species that remain small, or will they all outgrow a decently-sized fish tank? Which one is the smallest one?

I’ve put together a list to help with all of that.

True eels are ray-finned fish that belong to the Anguilliformes order which is found under the bony vertebrates classification.

This includes all the popular species, such as the Moray eel, Spaghetti eel, American eel, European eel, and others.

The Anguilliformes all spawn in the ocean, where their parents have bred.

However, the spawns will migrate to a body of freshwater.

The eels spend a portion of their life there, in brackish to freshwater.

This relocation is only temporary though – they remain marine in nature and need the salinity.

Towards maturity, they will return to the ocean to reproduce. Salinity is required for a healthy true eel. Therefore, there are no true freshwater eels.

Unfortunately, many fish stores will market these eels as freshwater inhabitants.

This results in ignorant people taking them home.

After a couple of months the eel dies, because it could not properly fulfill its life cycle…

There are eel-like freshwater fish, however. They will behave and look like an eel, though not a real member of the family.

The dragon goby, for example, is sometimes classified as a freshwater pet.

Objectively, it can gradually adapt to tolerate such conditions.

However, it will feel most comfortable in brackish water, so it does not belong to this classification.

11 Freshwater Eels That Can be Kept as Aquarium Pets

Freshwater eels that can be kept as pets are actually look-alike fish with similar behavior to the true members of the family. True eel species will need to migrate to saltwater eventually, even though your local fish store may claim otherwise.

Mentioned below are only the ones that can spend their full lives in 100% salt-free water.

The known species of eels that can live in a fully freshwater aquarium are:

1. Tire Track Eel (Mastacembelus favus)

Tire Track Eel

By Trougnouf

Water temperature: 73 to 82 °F (~23 to ~28 °C)
pH: 6.5 to 8
Water Hardness: 5 to 15 gH
Recommended tank size: At least 35 gallons for youngsters and at least 125 gallons for adults.
Grows up to: 30″ (75 cm)

These elongated fish will have a character on their own. Though a little shy at first they will eventually feel more confident to swim around your tank.

These fish need their safe-space and would like to hide in caves or bury themselves in the soft substrate.

Speaking of which the substrate should be non-abrasive, with sand being a good option.

They also enjoy having a PVC pipe lying around for them to hang out in.

When M. favus feels comfortable enough it will start to show itself more often.

Sometimes they get too comfortable and will try and steal food from other tank mates, right off their mouths.

If you do plan to look after more than one, then you have a “window” of 3 to 4 months. After that, the Tire track eel gets used to living on its own and might not tolerate others from its kind.

They are a semi-aggressive fish and will try to eat whatever fits in their mouth. Keeping them with smaller fish is not a bright idea.

Tire tracks will need a tank with other similar sized or larger fish, compatible in aggression levels (think mature cichlids).

As they reach up to 2.5 feet or around 75 cm these eels need a fairly large tank of AT LEAST 125 gallons. In the wild, they occupy a territory of several square feet.

If you plan on keeping two from the same species be sure to have an even larger tank as they can get pretty territorial.

Mind that the growth rate of fire track eels can be fast when they’re young but slows its pace when with time. They will grow with about an inch and a half (around 4 cm) per month with proper care.

Tire track eels will do fairly well (or even better) in slightly salt-ish water. The salt in the water will make them even hardier than they already are.

It will give them a fair dose of protection from parasites (ich can be a common issue with these guys).

Note that the salinity levels should still be far from the “brackish” ones.

Tire track eels love to snack on a black worm, nightcrawler, krill, Mysis, Cyclops, and ocean plankton, with the occasional frozen bloodworm.

Flake food is a no-no.

Tire tracks need a strong water movement that will oxygenate the water well enough for them to feel homelike.

2. Fire Eel (Mastacembelus erythrotaenia)

Fire Eel in a planted tank

By LIandor

Water temperature: 73 to 82 °F (~23 to ~28 °C)
pH: 6.5 to 8
Water Hardness: 5 to 15 gH
Recommended tank size: At least 55 gallons for youngsters and 180 gallons or above for adults.
Grows up to: 40″ (100 cm)

Fire eels grow the largest of all the spiny eels.

They can reach up 3+ feet (around 1 meter) in the wild. In aquariums, they will not grow as much as with all other spiny eels. However, you should be prepared to have a full-sized monster of at least 30 inches or 76 cm.

A fire eel does very well in community tanks as it mostly ignores fish that are not perceived as food.

Good tank mates for a fire eel are large, yet calm fish. Don’t keep two fire eels at a time in the same aquarium.

They become aggressive towards one another, sparring for territory. This is a bottom-dwelling fish, so be cautious of what size your other bottom-dwellers are or aim to be.

Fire eels’ favorite activity, if I can call it that way, is to burrow themselves in the gravel. When having one of those, consider a gravel layer of 2.5″ (6.3 cm) or more.

It is common for a fire eel to uproot plants. Switching to floating plants is to be expected when keeping this species.

The plants will also dim the lighting in the fish tank.

Fire eels enjoy a darker aquarium and will appreciate your efforts.

Abundant hiding places should be available, as these fish like to play a lot of “hide and seek”.

Having the occasional driftwood centerpiece (a link to where to find those for free) and rock work along with caves is a must.

This fish is generally hardy and the only difficulty fishkeepers face is its size.

At first, a 35 to 55-gallon tank would fit its needs, but a mature specimen would need no less than a 180-gallon aquarium.

Fire eels will recognize their owners so they can be hand-fed.

Feed them krill and frozen bloodworm when juveniles, ghost shrimp. When they reach maturity they will prefer eating live nightcrawlers and will be happy to stick to that.

In the wild they usually snack on black worms, so see if you have access to those.

Classified as an omnivore they do rarely snack on vegetables but prefer live prey as a main source of food.

Mind that these fish are nocturnal and will come out mostly during the night. If, however, you provide them with low, subdued light they can feel comfortable enough to show up during the daytime.

3. Zig-Zag Eel (Mastacembelus armatus)

A golden Zig-Zag Eel

Water temperature: 73 to 82 °F (~23 to ~28 °C)
pH: 6.5 to 8
Water Hardness: 5 to 15 gH
Recommended tank size: At least 35 gallons for juveniles and a 150+ gallon tank for adults.
Grows up to: 40″ (100 cm)

This species is often confused with the Tire track eel in stores. The confusion occurs, because as they are being sold as juveniles, there isn’t much distinctive coloration between the two.

The only way to tell apart a zig-zag eel from its tire track cousin is the pattern and its pronunciation.

The zig-zag eel will have an actual pattern of lines similar to each other, where the tire track eel’s pattern appears more random and pronounced.

Tire track’s coloration looks more like O’s and zig-zag’s look more like slanting I’s.

The reason I took the time to describe the differences in juveniles is that the zig-zag eel can grow way larger than the tire track. Mature individuals can reach a maximum size of up to 3 feet (90 cm).

However, this happens in the course of years as these “eels” have a lifespan of around 18 years with good care.

It should also be noted that in captivity they do tend to remain smaller, so a realistic expectation would be around 2 feet or 60 cm.

The growth rate of M. armatus is similar to that of M. favus capping at 1-1.6 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) per month at a young age provided there is abundant food and lots of living space.

As spiny eels go these guys will also like to burrow in your substrate and hide for the most part during the daytime.

Fine gravel or sand is recommended.

During the night they will become more active and hunt for prey.

They are full-blown predators and will try to eat anything that fits in their mouth.

That being said, compatible tank mates are all fish that are large enough not to get eaten.

The zig-zag eel is semi-aggressive so fish with the same temperament are recommended. Aggressive fish are known to have killed spiny eels if the eel was not a respectable size.

Bottom-dwellers should be kept with caution as the zig-zags tend to get territorial for their hiding spots.

The minimum-sized tank for these guys is a long 125 gallon.

However, when this fish reaches 1.5 to 2 feet it is strongly recommended to relocate them in a bigger tank as they will feel confined.

The zig-zag eel’s diet consists of frozen bloodworm and shrimp, live ghost shrimp, tubifex, and Cyclops.

They will eat small-sized fish if given the opportunity.

4. Peacock Eel (Macrognathus siamensis)

Peacock Eel

By Bonhilda

Water temperature: 73 to 80 °F (~23 to ~26.6 °C)
pH: 6.5 to 7.5
Water Hardness: 5 to 15 gH
Recommended tank size: 35 gallons for juveniles and a 55+ for adults.
Grows up to: 12″ (30 cm)

If you haven’t kept a spiny eel before this is the species for you. In the store, they may also be labeled as Striped Peacock eel, Siamese Spiny eel, or Spot-finned Spiny Eel.

This eel-like fish reaches a maximum size of around 12″ (30 cm), unlike the previously listed giants.

Therefore it is well-suited to inhabit 35 to 55-gallon tanks.

Peacock eels are shy and it may take a while before they feel comfortable enough in your aquarium. They will hide in your substrate for most of the time, at first.

Fine, non-abrasive gravel layer of 2 inches will do.

This eel has a rather peaceful temperament, making it perfect for community tanks. Similar-sized, non-aggressive fish are best as tank companions.

It may try to eat small tank mates (think Neon tetras) as peacock eels have a predatory nature.

Keep them in communities of ottos, swordtails, guppies, rainbowfish, and the less aggressive cichlids.

Unlike other spiny fish, M. siamensis feels comfortable with others of its kind and won’t get territorial.

If you plan on keeping more than one, make sure they are of similar age, as tolerance comes with size equality.

The tank setup should consist of lots of plants, as these creatures like to hide among vegetation.

Generally, they prefer slow-moving water, as it resembles their natural habitat.

Pristine water is a must. Weekly water changes of 20% to 30% are necessary, as well as constant oxygenation.

As with other spiny eel fish, the peacock one has a lifespan of 8 to 20 years.

Though tropical, the water temperature should not exceed 80 °F (26.6 °C).

Feeding a peacock with live food is necessary as these eels are strictly carnivores.

Feed it bloodworm, earthworm, black worm, and tubifex. An eating schedule should consist of 3 or 4 offerings per week.

5. Half-banded spiny eel (Macrognathus circumcinctus)

a small Half-banded Spiny Eel swimming near aquarium decoration

By Ferret_Lord / Reddit

Water temperature: 73 to 82 °F (~23 to ~28 °C)
pH: 6.8 to 7.5
Water Hardness: 5 to 15 gH
Recommended tank size: 10 gallons for juveniles and a 35 to 55 gallons tank for adults.
Grows up to: 8″ (20 cm)

This species of spiny eel is among the smallest in the family. A half-banded spiny eel will rarely surpass a length of 8 inches (20 cm). Such maximum size allows aquarists to keep this fish in smaller tanks.

Any aquarium setup of 35 to 55 gallons is more than enough. If you have a such-sized aquarium and don’t plan on upgrading to a bigger one any time soon, I highly recommend choosing this spiny eel.

Another thing these guys stand out with is their temperament. They are quite friendly and outgoing. Strangers to scandal, the half-banded spiny eels will roam your aquarium, hanging out with other tank mates.

They will occasionally burrow themselves in your substrate though. Fine sand would be the best choice here.

Keeping live plants can be challenging, as this eel will try to uproot them. Floating plants are your best option, but a deeply rooted big plant is not out of the question.

Though they will be active during daylight, you’d still need to provide them with hiding areas. Bogwood, rocks, and shady places have to be abundant.

All fish that are not considered food will be promptly ignored by M. corcumcinctus. This includes most any none to semi-aggressive tank mates that are not small enough for the eel’s tiny mouth.

Choose fish that are longer than 2 inches (5 cm) for companions.

Speaking of eating – any live prey will be ideal for the half-banded spiny eel.

Feed it live bloodworm and small crustaceans such as brine or ghost shrimp.

The lifespan of the half-banded spiny eel is significantly shorter than that of its larger cousins.

It will live between 5 and 10 years. In a larger, stress-free tank it can survive for even more than that.

6. Asian Swamp Eel (Monopterus albus)

a large Asian Swamp Eel

Water temperature: 78 to 82 °F (~26 to ~28 °C)
pH: 6.2 to 8
Water Hardness: 5 to 25 gH
Recommended tank size: 75 gallons for juveniles and a 150 (but preferably 180) gallons for adults.
Grows up to: 45″ (115 cm)

Only for expert level fishkeepers. The Asian swamp eel (or Rice eel) can become a true monstrosity.

It will reach up to a 45 inches (over a meter). Occasionally it will grow even larger.

This eel-like fish needs to stretch out fully in its tank. Aquariums with a length of at least 6 feet are recommended as the bare minimum for adult specimens.

The water quality should be kept in check as swamp eels are prone to fungal infections.

The swamp eel is notorious for its aggressive temperament.

As juveniles, their aggression towards other tank mates can get out of control easily.

They will bite, attack, or straight up kill even the larger fish.

This eel-like fish has obnoxiously strong jaws. When older, it will become more lethargic and it may not show interest in performing genocides anymore.

As an adult, it will prefer to keep its nose close to the water surface. This fish breathes air so that’s normal behavior for larger, more lethargic specimens.

On this note, it is really best to keep them alone or with others of their kind.

Some fishkeepers do keep them along with other large fish that fall in the 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) range.

As all eel-like fishes, this one needs its hiding areas too, though they are not shy.

Its diet leans towards the piscivorous side.

Your Asian swamp eel pet can be fed feeder fish, small crustaceans, feeder frogs, and invertebrates. it will not refuse to eat earthworms, bloodworms, shrimp, and even white fish.

The lifespan of the swamp eel is estimated at 8 to 12 years.

7. Rubber Eel (Typhlonectes natans)

Ribber Eel

Water temperature: 78 to 82 °F (~26 to ~28 °C)
pH: 6.5 to 7.2 for juveniles, adults can tolerate a more alkaline water of up to 8
Water Hardness: 5 to 15 gH
Recommended tank size: 10 gallons for juveniles and 35 to 55 gallons for adults.
Grows up to: 22″ (55 cm)

The rubber eel, also famous as a Caecilian worm is actually an air-breathing, legless amphibian. It will swim to the surface to breathe oxygen.

These guys have gone through some weird evolution.

Rubber eels are almost completely blind.

For this reason, they have a rather scavenging habit of feeding and won’t really bother other fish.

Feed them with bloodworm or earthworm and they will be happy.

A caecilian can be kept with small fishes, as long as they are active, fast swimmers.

Avoid keeping it with fish that are known to eat slime coats, as rubber eels are very sensitive on the subject.

They like to bury themselves in the substrate so opt for fine sand or gravel to prevent injury.

Provide them with lots of hiding places across the tank. Even a PVC tube would suffice, but driftwood is encouraged.

Rubber eels can grow up to 22 inches (a little over 55 centimeters) with good care.

By “good” I mean pretty much any level of care, as these guys are mind-blowingly hardy. The only requirement is that your water is warm and aerated.

These creatures breathe through their skin, but will occasionally find their way to the water surface.

Caecilians shed their skin, so don’t freak out when it happens. Remove the old skin with a net, to avoid spoiling the aquarium water.

These prehistoric creatures are rare in local fish stores. There are some legal issues around their import and export. You may have a hard time finding one for sale.

Despite their size, they don’t require a large tank. The estimated lifespan is around 5 years.

8. Kuhli / Coolie loach (Pangio kuhlii)

a small Kuhli Loach swimming through aquarium plants

By Robert Mollik

Water temperature: 76 to 86 °F (24.5 to 30 °C)
pH: 5.5 to 6.5
Water Hardness: 5 to 10 gH
Recommended tank size: 20 gallons for a school of juveniles and 125 gallons for adults.
Grows up to: 4″ (10.1 cm)

Kuhli loaches are a great addition to medium-sized community tanks.

Because of their unique appearance and coloration, I actually placed them on my list of the coolest and most colorful freshwater fish.

They don’t grow much, have a curious personality, and enjoy the company of others.

The Kuhli loaches grow to a maximum size of 4 inches or about 10 cm.

Such a tiny size effectively makes them the smallest of the freshwater eel fish.

Though a 10-gallon tank seems appropriate this is not the case here.

Kuhli loaches do enjoy hanging out in schools of 3 or more.

Kept alone they will spend their time hiding as they don’t like socializing with other fish.

However, when in a school with more of their kind they will feel confident enough to roam your tank more often.

This implies that for juveniles a 20-gallon tank will be the bare minimum if you want them to be happy. For a school of 5 to 6 adult coolies, it’s recommended to provide a 125 gallon, long tank.

Other than that they strongly resemble eels in behavior. These creatures are mostly nocturnal and will scavenge for food after sunset.

Burrowing in the sand is among their favorite activities. Avoiding sharp aquascape and gravel comes without saying. Fine sand is the best substrate option for the Kuhli loach. Larger gravel may promote injury.

Another eel-like trait of theirs is the tendency to squeeze through the tiniest hole.

These guys are super curious and will find their way through almost any slit.

Securing your filter’s outlet is a recommended safety measure.

Suitable tankmates for a Kuhli loach are any fish that are peaceful in nature.

As opposed to other larger eels, in this case, the danger comes from tank mates eating your eel-like pet and not the other way around.

A rule of thumb is that any well-mannered community fish will do here.

A Kuhli loach will mainly hang out at the bottom of the tank. Bottom-dwellers are not an issue as Kuhlis tend to get along with them.

In terms of feeding these eel-like fishes prefer to scavenge for their food.

They will eat live and frozen foods, along with pellets straight from the bottom.

As a live food, you can feed them bloodworm and tubifex or brine shrimp.

When feeding with pellets choose the sinking ones. Flakes meals should come from a quality brand.

Occasionally offer a herbivore pellets.

There’s a myth circulating the Internet that the pangio kuhlii will eat snails. Unfortunately, this is not exactly true – too few reports to confirm it.

With the Kuhli’s rather impressive lifespan of 10 years, you may have enough time to find out the truth for yourself.

9. Reedfish (Erpetoichthys calabaricus)

Reedfish eel

By Michał Zalewski

Water temperature: 73 to 82 °F (~23 to ~28 °C)
pH: 6 to 7.5
Water Hardness: 2 to 15 gH
Recommended tank size: 30 gallons for a single juvenile and 55 gallons for an adult.
Grows up to: 18″ (45 cm)

The reedfish, also known as ropefish, is a large, yet docile eel-like fish species. They are friendly and curious, but will not bother your other fish.

Though in the wild they will reach a mature size of up to 3 feet (90 cm), in captivity they max their growth at no more than a feet and a half (45 cm).

This makes a 55-gallon tank suitable for a solo ropefish adult.

However, they are very social and enjoy the company of one another. To stimulate their activity in the tank you should keep 2 to 3 at a time.

This way they become way less boring and will browse the bottom more.

In such a scenario, 75 to 125 gallons would be an appropriate-sized tank.

They are quite flexible and do not really need to stretch out fully inside the aquarium.

However, when in a group they are fairly active and need their swimming space.

Still, the occasional hiding place should be provided as they are, after all, eel-mannered.

Speaking of which, they do go on a hunt for prey at night. The tankmates for your reedfish should not fit in its mouth by any means.

Another thing to consider about companions is that they should not be aggressive either.

A reedfish is pretty calm in its nature and may get bullied by more aggressive fishes.

Avoid keeping it with plecos, as they will disturb its slime coat, which can turn out lethal.

Feed your ropefish live food such as small feeder fish, earthworm, bloodworm, and insect larvae.

This freshwater “eel” breathes atmospheric air, despite having gills.

In the wild, they inhabit swamp-like stagnant or slow-moving water.

This resulted in them evolving lung-like organs.

It is not uncommon for them to swim to the surface to have a gulp of oxygen.

10. Electric Eel (Electrophorus electricus)

Monstrous Electric Eel waiting for prey

By Steven G. Johnson

Water temperature: 73 to 82 °F (~23 to ~28 °C)
pH: 5.5 to 6.5
Water Hardness: 1 to 12 gH
Recommended tank size: A tank the size of Mount Olympus (100+ gallons for juveniles and 540 gallons for adults).
Grows up to: 95″+ (240+ cm)

No. Just no. This fish is not to be kept in captivity unless you are a top-level specialist. And even then I wouldn’t recommend getting one of those, because it is simply dangerous.

The E. Electricus is part of the knifefish family.

It grows up to 8 feet (240 cm), but larger species have been recorded. You’d need a huge 540-gallon fish tank to house a single adult.

Not to mention a solid filtration system as these fish can really make a mess. Obviously, this is not the scary part.

These fish are worldwide famous for a reason.

The electricity they produce can reach up to 600 volts and 1 ampere. A repetitive electrical shock of this proportion can stop the human heart, resulting in death for the unlucky owner.

Maintaining an electric eel tank would require special protective gear.

They will try to stun you with electricity during water changes.

Needless to say, you can’t keep an electric eel with other tank mates, unless their own kind.

On top of that, these guys are plain ugly and have a really boring personality.

Whenever they grow larger all they will do is hang out on the bottom, motionless. In the wild they will spend days like this, waiting for prey.

They come from stagnant swamp waters where the oxygen is really low.

Because of this, the electric eel would have to swim to the surface to breathe atmospheric air. In a fish tank, this would be the only exciting movement you’ll see from it.

They are so boring, in fact, that some fishkeepers install speakers that monitor the electrical charge in the water.

Upon feeding, the eel produces massive charges and the speaker transmits them as sound. The sound very much resembles a Geiger-Muller counter near a nuclear reactor.

Video recordings of the process can be easily found online.

When it comes to feeding you can offer this eel pretty much anything that will fit its mouth.

As a carnivorous predator, it will eat whitefish, trout, invertebrates, amphibians, and even small mammals.

Really, an animal for extreme fishkeepers.

It also has a lifespan of over 15 years.

11. African lungfish (Protopterus annectens)

The African Lungfish looks prehistoric

By Brian Gratwicke

Water temperature: 75 to 86 °F (~24 to ~30 °C)
pH: 6 to 8.5
Water Hardness: 1 to 10 gH
Recommended tank size: 55 gallons for juveniles and anything above 75 gallons for adults.
Grows up to: 32″+ (81 cm)

This eel-like creature is ancient.

Research claims that It has stayed physically the same for millions of years.

Perhaps, that’s because it has evolved a ton of survival mechanisms, so no more evolution was needed. But enough speculations.

The African lungfish is a lazy, unpredictable monstrosity.

They have a really strong jaw and can bite off parts of their tank mates at will.

Yet, they are mostly calm and don’t move around as much.

The P. annectens will grow up to a size of 40 inches in the wild (1 meter).

In captivity, however, they will rarely reach more than 30″ (or 75+ cm).

Following these facts, there are two conclusions to be made.

This fish is better off alone in a tank. They won’t tolerate their kind and may snap on other fish.

The tank they should be kept in should allow them to fully stretch and turn around but that’s about it.

They are not active swimmers so a 36″ long tank would do. Any tank of 65 gallons or above will do for an adult lungfish.

They are classified as omnivores, but their diet can be 100% meat.

An African lungfish will eat just about anything – white lancefish, prawns, mussels, worms, crustaceans, shrimp, frogs…

They will eat pellets as well, occasionally algae wafers can be offered too. Mature specimens can be fed whole live fish.

As a carnivore, the lungfish will produce copious amounts of waste. Your filter should be top of the notch to keep the water at a healthy level.

The water movement should be kept down to a minimum. These fish like dim lighting, and don’t really bother with the decor. They do enjoy a sandy (or better yet – muddy) substrate so make sure it has at least 3 inches of that.

The lungfish needs to be able to reach the water surface, as well. They breathe mostly atmospheric air, as they have a rather sophisticated lung-like organ.

You can own this boring eel as your pet for about 18 years with proper care.

Freshwater eels care tips and peculiarities

There are general similarities between all the eel fish, that need to be taken into consideration. Here’s what to be wary of when caring for your freshwater eels:

  • steady lids/hoods – all of the aforementioned species are escape artists.

    They will escape if your lid is not securely positioned. They are all surprisingly intelligent and unimaginably curious.

    All of them without exception have the physical ability to squeeze even through the tiniest opening. Secure all possible openings, be it with a plastic bag or some other barrier.

    There are just too many records where an eel escapes the aquarium of a clumsy fishkeeper.

    Some of them can survive a fair amount of time on land and will make the trip to freedom.

    Others will get injured from the drop and possibly die without water. In either case, you don’t want them outside of your aquarium.

  • water conditions – These eels are rather hardy, but do not forget they are tropical in their nature.

    Some will be more temperature-sensitive than others, but overall try to stick to the recommended values.

    Most of them will require pristine water. The lack of scales leaves them prone to parasites and illnesses.

    Keep your water condition in check and perform the needed water changes. Do not use medication that includes copper in an eel aquarium.

  • dimmed lighting – all eel-like fish would require a dim light (except, perhaps, the Kuhli loaches).

    They are all shy in their nature and are mostly nocturnal.

    A dimmed light simulates their natural habitat.

    This encourages the eels to be more active in the aquarium.

    You can achieve that effect by having lots of floating plants, for example.

    I know that choosing the right lighting for a large aquarium can be difficult, so click the link for a guide I wrote to help with that.

  • soft, fine substrate – Every self-respecting eel will occasionally burrow itself in your substrate. This imposes the use of a fine, non-abrasive substrate.

    Fine grade sand is a universally accepted solution for eelkeepers.

  • strong filter – As carnivores, these fish will produce a massive waste load.

    A weak or low-quality filtration system is not an option here.

    The water will get contaminated fast. As most of the eel fishes grow large, the aquariums they require will also be large.

    Do not compromise with the filtration system. Buy a high-end filter that will be able to handle all the waste.

    Visit the link to overview some of the stronger canister filters on the market right now.

    Don’t know what a canister filter is? Click here to find out.

  • deep-rooted or floating plants – As the eel-like behavior implies, your plants may get uprooted.

    Thick and well-planted plants will likely survive.

    The better option here is to switch to floating live ones.

    This way they will sufficiently subdue the lighting while saving you worries.

  • hiding places – All aforementioned species like to hide, except the really huge ones.

    Provide them with long, narrow spaces.

    If you don’t think it looks too ugly, a PVC pipe is a really good choice.

    Artificial caves and carefully executed rock work will do.

    Avoid having too many sharp objects, though. These fish are bottom-dwellers and upon hiding they may harm themselves on the sharper edges.

  • aggression and compatibility – most of the species listed above are either semi-aggressive or full-blown psychopaths.

    To avoid conflict, keep them with larger fish of the same temperament.

    Usually, the small ones such as the Kuhli loach or the half-banded spiny eel will not be as problematic.

  • diet – if you’re about to tame a freshwater eel you’d need a good amount of bloodworm supplies. In general, the eels will eat all kinds of worms, ghost shrimp, and krill. Accepting pellets is a rarity.

Final Thoughts

Though I don’t recommend anyone to rush and get an eel for their home tank, it’s still possible with the right approach.

Eels-mannered fish can be a cool addition to any aquarium or even its centerpiece attraction.

Now, that you have the knowledge, are you prepared to start an eel tank of your own?

Tell me about it in the comments or ask me a question.

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Great info. I had a Rubber eel some years ago, forgot it was in tank due to it burying itself all the time. I fed her earth worms from my backyard she loved them, green slime came out of her mouth prior to eating. She grabbed my pinky to the first knuckle one time. We Found her outside the tank on the floor she also had three babies we clean them off put them back in the tank and sold them all about
2 and 1/2 years later.


We found a ~2″ long american eel on Cape Cod seashore – it was trying to a get into a small stream of brakish water. We brought it home and put it into our freshwater fishtank. This was ~12 years ago. It is still alive, about 12″ long now but mostly stopped growing long time ago. We change water in the fishtank every 2-3 years.The tank is unheated. Sometimes we do not feed the eel for weeks. Most of the time I just feed it some human food (ham or bologna) but also try to give it some frozen worms.… Read more »

K Smith

Stupid cow, why write about mistreating an animal fOr years as it a successful story. EVIL.


I thought about putting a eel that only gets a big 9″ and aggressive with a pair of 11inch pike cichlids.


Or put a big male dwarf sized eel with a pair of breeding bowfin fish


Khuli loaches, reed fish, and lung fish are not eels. Also wikipedia wants their images back.

Kaycee Thomas

Great information, thanks for sharing! I’ve been considering getting a M. circumcinctus for a while now, have a nice little 10g, heavily planted and decorated, dimly lit aquarium with a sand substrate. He will be the only animal in the tank besides a couple snails. I’m torn between a spiny eel and a pea puffer now because I’m afraid I might never see the eel if it’s always hiding. What are your thoughts? Thanks!